If I had to pick my absolute favorite designer, I would probably have to say Alexander McQueen. His ability to effortlessly combine nature, technology, and humanity flawlessly into his collections makes him undeniably one of the greatest artists of the 21st century. His last collection was in 2010 and was called “Plato’s Atlantis”, a reference to the advanced society that, according to the Greek philosopher, sunk into the sea a millennia ago. This collection predicted a futuristic earth where the ice caps have melted and the world has become uninhabitable. However, while the prevailing attitudes in science-fiction and technology tend to lean towards space colonization as a way to deal with the destruction of earth, McQueen told the story of a world where humanity has returned to the ocean instead.
“THIS COLLECTION PREDICTED A FUTURE IN WHICH THE ICE CAP WOULD MELT… THE WATERS WOULD RISE AND… LIFE ON EARTH WOULD HAVE TO EVOLVE IN ORDER TO LIVE BENEATH THE SEA ONCE MORE OR PERISH. HUMANITY [WOULD] GO BACK TO THE PLACE FROM WHENCE IT CAME” LEE ALEXANDER MCQUEEN.
The collection began with dresses digitally printed with patterns resembling snakes, meant to mirror the transition of humanity from the earth to the sea. This can best be seen in the details of the opening look, worn by model Magdalena Frackowiak.
The construction of the garments was especially challenging and required new forms of computer generated art to construct. The fabric was formed around the models bodies in ways that made them look un-proportional and almost non-human, emphasizing the themes of reverse evolution. The genius architectural integrity showcased in both the clothing and accessories touch on the nature of the advanced society that Plato outlined in his theory of Atlantis. The complexity of the form and prints can be seen in the ninth look in the collection worn by Amanda Laine.
“Plato’s Atlantis is Darwin’s theory of evolution in reverse… We came from the water and now, with the help of stem cell technology, we must go back to survive” – Alexander McQueen
As the collection continues, the transformation from earth to water becomes even more pronounced. The twenty-second look in the collection, worn by Anya Kazakova, shows the transformation from a more earthly palette, to an entirely aquatic one. The dress slowly fades from a russet brown to a bright turquoise, and the polished golden plates under the dress seem to suggest a transition from human to amphibious biology.
The transition from earth to water is complete and can be seen in the ocean colored palettes that the models wear at the close of the collection. The recognizable human elements of the clothing has been replaced by a seamless biological blend between the model and the ocean, while still maintaining the structural genius that is present in the entire collection.
The final look in the collection, called “Neptune’s Daughter” is probably the most famous, and is definitely the most eye-catching. The full body look is covered entirely in opalescent paillettes that mirror the scales on a sea creature and create an image of the full hybridization of humanity and the environment that we will be forced to evolve into in order to survive.
While the theme of global warming that McQueen works with is undeniably serious and sheds light on some unfavorable aspects of human nature, McQueen presents it as an opportunity for human growth and evolution. As an artist who was influenced both by the future and the past, McQueen saw the brilliance that humanity has achieved, and believed in our resilience and ability to advance our species through any means necessary. The idea that we have the ability to inspire change and growth within ourselves even after contributing to the almost complete destruction of our environment is something that is uniquely human. Alexander McQueen had the ability to look unblinkingly at the worst parts of human nature and turn them into something beautiful, effectively turning humanity itself into a work of art.
Also: look at the shoes!
Edge of Esthétique 